New Puppy Tips
Since puppy pick-up time is very exciting, several notes could have been missed or lost in the distracted union. I jotted the things we talked about here for anyone looking for more direction or a recap of something I said. There are great books and guides along with online wonders to get everyone started, so find your own bliss. I'm a text away if I can be of any more help.
Also: I will not beg you for photos over the coming weeks/months/years since that makes me feel like a possessive stalker auntie. However ANYTIME you have a picture and think, "I wonder if I should send this to Tonya?" the answer is always, "Yes!" I do love to see the pups growing up and I remain curious to know how they turn out in disposition similar or different than the initial indicators as it helps inform future litters, breedings, and suggestions to buyers for a family fit.
Food:
The pups will need to continue with 3 meals per day until 6 months when you can phase the middle meal out.
They should currently be eating about 2 1/4 cups of Taste of the Wild Puppy Recipe per day.
For each meal, you should soak 3/4 a cup of food in about 1/2 cup of water for about 15 min before feeding. This helps keep the puppy properly hydrated so they will drink and pee less through the night hours.
Also- Dogs are drawn to food more for smell than taste. Dry kibble does not smell as good until it is reconstituted to release the aromas. They will eat more wet food than dry food. The more they eat/drink during the day, the less hungry/thirsty they get at night and the more sleep you get.
Always offer breakfast at the same time. Pups will learn you are on a reliable clock so they will not need to whine and cry to tell you it is time to eat. They have been eating at 7:00, 1:00, and 7:00 along with dry kibble treats or bouts of nursing through the day as a "fourth" meal. --- (Obviously this is not needed for your older pup/dog, but will create trust and confidence now. )
By 4 months old, they should be down to 3 meal times per day (or two meals with the kibble rewards as an extended lunch meal). Stuffing a moistened lunch or dinner into a hollow marrow bone or Kong to keep a puppy busy all afternoon solves many puppy energy issues. You can even freeze a stuffed bone/Kong for older pups so they take even longer to work out.
When they reach 6 months, you can feed less and less of their food content at lunch (or use it as rewards through the day) and feed only two meals per day.
After your pup has had a few weeks to work through the stress of new home, new rules, new bed, new water source, new parents, new smells, new other pets, new sounds, new siblings, you can think about introducing a new food. You will need a high protein puppy formula intended for large breed dogs. Do your research and make a choice you can live with in terms of value for money, nutritional value, and consumer/veterinarian reviews. Be careful that the sources you are reading online are not powered by the distributors of the food (i.e. Chewy.com) so you get fair input. Check recall history. Note that Amazon and Chewy.com have gotten dinged for shipping knock off foods with the same labels but substandard ingredients or past expiration dates, or soured food etc. so it may be worth it to shlep it home from a feed store.
Common names on recommended lists for large breed puppies you may want to check:
Wellness Core Natural Grain Free Puppy
A raw and whole foods diet is remarkably better for the animal than dry kibble, but is generally cost prohibitive. If that is not the case for you or you find a way to manage that cost downwards, by all means, aim for a fresh foods diet.
For those doing a kibble diet, note the foods that are included in high quality dog foods and treat your dog to bits of them when they are in your own diet. Chicken, beef, organ meat, lamb, game, any part of a fish, eggs along with the shell for calcium, raw beef bones, apples, carrots, blueberries, watermelon, broccoli, spinach, celery, peas, sweet potatoes.
When in doubt-- read a list of poisonous foods for dogs. Common on the list is grapes/raisins/chocolate/caffine/apple seeds.
What do you want your dog to 'Do?'
There are as many approaches to puppy training as there are trainers. The internet is full of 'how to' videos and online schools you can use during covid times if in person/puppy classes become difficult to manage due to restrictions. While we could all argue "Who is the best pup guru?" -- the best goal is to find a couple of great sources and learn valuable tips to aid your success and not just "wing it." Over 80% of puppies that get surrendered are there for issues of behavior and a heap more people endure poor quality of life with their pet because of persistent aggravations.
First figure out what you want. These are smart dogs so the level of training is really up to you.
Most people want at least the basics:
I want a dog that: sleeps through the night, comes when called, can 'sit' and 'stay' on command, does not chew on me or my belongings, does not beg, borrow or steal my food or socks, poops and pees outside of my home, can walk on a leash without pulling, does not bark incessantly, can fetch a ball (yep-- with a retriever, this is a basic every one of them NEEDS to feel fulfilled), likes to hang out with me.
Others will (and should) press on to the next level:
I want a dog that also: rings a bell to be let out of the house to potty, eliminates in a specific place in my yard and can do so on cue so I can have him/her empty bowels and bladder prior to walks and car rides (and not be left to carry a poop bag all around the neighborhood or borrow trash can use from strangers), will get "off" people and furniture, will ask permission to jump up on the bed, can read my hand cues so I do not have to interrupt my conversations or holler to get obedience, goes to his/her crate, the car, or the house on command, sits still to get a leash on, loves the chance to work with me on training.
A few will head for the higher level of dog enjoyment:
They will purpose to say things like- I want a dog that: Does these 7-45 tricks I learned how to teach on Youtube, does 13 agility tricks I learned how to teach in an online class I registered for or attended, is able to navigate public places and can work into an Emotional Support Dog or a Therapy Dog, can work a river and swim back upstream in a current, puts on a surfing clinic at the beach and draws crowds, can outdance all the dogs in the park when I take her frisbee down, is the talk of the street and neighborhood everytime we go out.
All of the dogs in this litter are able to become what you desire them to be. The first step is deciding what you want so you know to aim for that and mark progress as you get there. Set your goals and a plan. Having everyone in the house understand the desired goal is the best way to make sure you get there. The rest is about educating the person doing the training so they have the tools and then it is up to them putting in the time and building the relationship.
As a breeder, I get links to dozens of online training classes. Due to covid, that market has exploded. I hesitate to direct you to one over the others as I have not had a chance to see them in action past initial adds. I offer the following link as an example of programs out there. If you would like more to look at, let me know and I can compile a list for you. This one does look very promising and the fees are on par with sequential puppy classes you might take in person. They also offer a lifetime support which could be very helpful if things come up for you later. Bella & Baxter Puppy School has classes that start with even before you bring pups home up through the ages and stages.
You also might really enjoy the variety and energy of ZAK GEORGE on his free chanel. The other 3 million subscribers might be onto something. He makes loving on pups look easy. His 5 video playlist for "New Puppy Survival Guide" is a great place to start to see if you will hit it off with his style.
How to Train:
A few basic notes that might help as you get started. Go watch a smattering of Youtube videos. You will start to see themes that let you know certain methods are universal.
Short training times are best done a few times each day. With young pups, 5-10 min 2-3 times per is plenty.
Train in the same place each time so they get it in mind that the "game" is about to take place. Later you can choose other areas to work from. Make sure they have pottied and done enough play to be calmed down to focus.
Use bits of their daily allotment of kibble as the treat along with a happy voice when you praise and pet.
Keep it positive and always end on a good note with something they KNOW how to do so they feel confident.
Use the same words, tone, inflection, (hand gestures are great to add in so they eventually can be done without your needing to speak.) for each command.
Teach them to come when called by name first. They need only come a few feet and then extend the distance gradually.
Next teach "Watch me" and reward the pup who is watching you and ready to see what you are doing. Holding a treat in front of your face and then giving it to the dog usually works since he sees the treat AND sees your face.
Next add "sit" -- Treat goes back over the head until they sit to look up at it. BOOM! Instant praise and treat.
Work on those three until they are solid. They will be the base you start every training with and the commands you put between other commands as you work so there is always something familiar.
When those three are solid, add in "lay down" by sliding the food bite down and away from a pup till they lay down to get it.
Cycle those four for several training sessions till they are solid and then add in the next command, "stay."
"Stay" only needs to be for a short time and space until you call the dog by name and clap then he/she can pounce up for the treat.
Work on Come/Watch me/Sit/Lay Down/Stay until they are solid and keep adding in commands till you have worked through your list of basic dog obedience you want in your home. You do not need to award every que. You can run several and then reward. Always end on the things you know they can do and quit before they become tired or distracted.
Goldens will work for praise alone, but the kibble helps direct the muzzle where you want it for the action so use it too.
Also-- Red Retrievers are from a working line of dogs. They enjoy working for their meals. Letting them earn their lunch and or dinner is a great way to keep them mentally stimulated too. Dogs that are physically and mentally exercised have less energy to become destructive and are better companions.
As soon as you have taught them to retrieve a ball, they are all yours for obedience. A retriever will follow and listen to ANYONE with a ball with quivering anticipation since you *might* throw that ball and LET THEM run and get it. The ball becomes the way to get focus, maintain the dog in public spaces (just one ball in your pocket makes you the most interesting person in the park or mall), and exercise them while working on other aspects of training. Do not settle for a dog that gets and then runs off with and hoards the ball. Your dog deserves to be the retriever he/she was born to be. Start in a very small space (laundry room/bathroom/kitchen) till the pup gets the idea of pouncing on the ball and then exchanging it for praise. Once he/she gets it, expand the space. Voila! You have a retriever!
Training Commands To Teach:
"Come/Name"
(Once you can get them to come when called-- you can easily teach the retrieving during playtime. Use a ball small enough they can get it in their small mouth. You toss it close where they can see it. They pounce. You call them. They 'release' and get the prize. You toss again. And again. And again.)
"Watch me"
"Sit"
"Lay Down"
"Stay"
"Crate" -- Go get in your crate. Teach this one by letting them come back out of the crate since you are training. Do not make it so that every time they obey that one they end up stuck in the crate or it feels like a trap.
"Pad" -- if there is also a dog pad kept outside the crate and you want them to go to it.
Leave it (Drop that thing out of your mouth) Offer an exchange toy and praise them when they 'Leave it" with the first item.
Wait (you can have it, but when I say) Teach by covering it with your hand and letting them 'wait' for it till you uncover it. Eventually, you do not even have to cover it and they will understand "Wait"-- Make sure you have a finger snap, or "Now," or some consistent cue to let them know when the wait is over and they can have it.
"Speak"-- used to command barking (to scare off someone too close to you on the street or an intruder) Also VERY useful for teaching the opposite "No Speak" when you want a nuisance/annoying barking dog to stop.
"Back" (back up you are too close)
"Out" (Get out of this room. Helpful when cooking, painting, or working and you do not want a dog underfoot in the room. Teach them to go lay at the door and watch from there.
These are commands you teach just by using them WHILE they do the activity:
"Off" (get off me, the kid, the visitor, the counters, or the furniture)
"Release" -- Let go of me, the ball, my shirt, my pants, the ham bone you just stole ect. Make sure to praise them when they do. A dog who learns to release will save you money and grief over time.
"Ring It" -- Ring the bell when you need to go outside. Say that and help them ring the bell everytime you take them out. They will soon learn to ring it to tell you they need out. Praise them "GOOD RING IT!"
"Hurry Up!" (go pee). -- If you use this WHILE they pee, they will know the cue
"Let's Go!" (go poop) -- Same as above but interesting to note, dogs see these as separate activities so hence the helpfulness of two separate cues. For instance, a dog has peed and wants back in the house. If you keep telling him/her to "Hurry Up" she is confused since she just did that. But if you now tell her to 'Let's Go!" she knows she needs to eliminate her bowels too in order to come back inside. This is so helpful when prepping for public spaces or car rides.
"House"-- Time to go inside the house.
"Car" -- Time to get inside the car.
"Hup" (Hop up -- on the bed, the car, the tailgate, etc.)
From there-- the internet is a big top tent filled with a circus of ideas -- go explore! Any of the above ideas you do not know how to teach are demonstrated by someone in Kansas just for you on Youtube. Then, keep going. You can have them roll over, play dead, shake hands, pull a rope to get you a water bottle or beer out of the fridge, 'Watch my six" - sit back to back with you and scan the horizon to protect your six o'clock viewpoint, get the remote so you never have to leave the couch, turn on lights, fetch your slippers, etc. ect. ect.
Housebreaking:
If they whine and bark at night in their crate, assume they need to potty. From 6 weeks old onward they have kept a dry bed by whining to get let out at night. Keep that going. Most will need a break around 2-3 am for a while longer as their bladder grows.
The rule of thumb with a puppy is: the size of the bladder is number of months old plus 1 = hours they can be crated and go without peeing. So- your 2 month old pup can go about 3 hours (longer with limiting water after dinner). Next month, s/he can go 4 hours and so on.
When you get up to let them out, keep the lights low, no need for chatter or high voices, no toys or rumpus, just go out to potty and straight back to bed. They must know-- nothing fun happens at night. This will help them soon sleep through the night as they only whine to get up if they have to potty enough to face the boring night in the cold.
If they continue to whine after potty time, they are thirsty. Let them drink and then aim to get more fluid in the next day so they can go through the night without needing a drink (which leads to more potty time).
Choose the space you want them to go in. Take them there. Go big on praise when they get it right.
Do not play in that place as it will confuse them and they do not like to step in poo. You also do not want them to step in poo.
Take them out as soon as they wake up each morning and from each nap.
Take them out 15 min after they eat/drink.
Use the bell everytime you go out to potty so they get it locked in as a step. Soon they will ring it for you and the rest is 12 years of smooth sailing.
When they have accidents, yelling does not help. They get fearful and learn to hide. That makes it far worse as deposits start behind the couch and under the dining room table ect. Instead, scoop up the pup, with the pup there, wipe the accident material up with a paper towel, let them smell it, and then ring the bell together, take the paper towel out to the designated potty spot. The pup can finish anything he/she started inside and see that is where the potty should have gone.
Screaming/Yelling/Rubbing a pup's face in pee does not help. It also makes you feel like a bit of a lunatic so aim for productive praise everytime you she/he gets it right.
The very best way to make sure a pup does not potty indoors is a radical approach but it works. Whenever the pup is out of the crate and indoors, snap a leash on him/her that is tethered to your waist or ankle. The dog becomes your shadow. He/she learns to anticipate your movement in the house, stay out from under foot when walking, get his/her exercise in while you move about the house, see you as the one who determines his/her movement etc. All the while, you can know EXACTLY what the pup is up to so no electrical cords or baseboards get chewed. You also see the very tell tale sign of a need to potty -- nose down-- turning in circles-- looking for a spot. When you see that, you make a quick exit to the door, ring the bell together, and head out.
Dogs who are house broken this way become the shadow dogs that move from room to room to be with you and stay alert to anticipate your movements. This is very helpful if you (might) want to transition later into therapy, ESA, agility, guide work.
For grooming:
Pups do not need brushed out the way older dogs will when they get their full coat.
When they are older, Get a brush you both like and leave it in a handy spot where you are likely to use it. Like in the living room if you have a regular show you watch. The goal is to do this daily. The reality is, most of us get to it about once a week and sweep up the other as fallen hair. Furminator makes great undercoat deShedding Tools.
Watch for mats that form in the fine hair behind the ears. If you can not brush the mat out, snip it out (careful not to nick the ear) as soon as you find them. Otherwise, they grow rapidly.
Aim to brush teeth once a weekend. Many folks tell you to do it daily or three times a week. Let's be real. Who does that? Once a weekend is more manageable over time so that you do not give up entirely. Get the dog toothbrush and paste at the pet store or online. For the rest of the week, rely on greenies or nylabones to help knock back tartar.
Aim to bathe at the start of each month. Until they are used to it, they may whimper but just keep a steady encouraging voice through out and they will find it is a fine way to spend the day.
Brush out dead hair first. Your drain line will thank you (a hair catcher mat for when you let the water out is a really good idea too.).
Trim nails. Use a good light to see where the dark nail turns white. Cut off only white tips. Catch those back dew claws too.
Gentle shampoo -- think oatmeal as an ingredient- since retrievers are more prone to itchy skin or allergies. Place a bath mat or old towel in the bottom of the tub to prevent slipping which makes them scared or scratches the tub. Tepid or warmish water (they can not regulate their temperature for hot water). Water does not need to be deep. Just leg height so you can scoop and pour water on them if your tub does not have a handheld device. Wet. Suds them up. Rinse down. The best smelling and softest dogs have a conditioner put in too. Treat yourself. Leave the conditioner on the head and ears a while longer to make the petting parts super soft. Tilt the head back so muzzle goes up in the air and water runs off the back of the head away from the eyes to rinse the head. As the dogs get bigger and their chest hair fills out, work in soap and conditioner on their big fluffy chest as they will look gorgeous.
Carry or walk a wet dog with a towel wrapped tight around it's midsection to prevent it from shaking all over you and the walls the moment you take it out of the tub. Get to the outdoors first and then remove the towel to let them shake. Also, dogs are prone to go to pee immediately on leaving a tub so you will need to get outdoors. After they shake several times, fluff them with a towel. Smaller pups will shiver as they dry so leave them wrapped up or in a warm room if they sun is not warm enough outside to help. Dogs also see grass and want to use it as a towel which will undo the work you just did to get clean. Using a leash to keep them moving helps until the urge to scrape the water and scent off is past.
Also remember: Retrievers were bred to swim in iced over water to retrieve winter waterfowl. They can easily handle a bath in an outdoor kiddie pool, or from a hose. Dawn some shorts and an old tee shirt, clip the dog to a stationary space and suds them up outdoors. They will be fine. Really. You will get water shaken all over you. You too will be fine. Really.
Trim back paw fluff around toes if you prefer a neater look. Trim behind legs if you prefer the "feathers" cropped closer. I've never trimmed a tail without instant regret but most people need to try it for themselves at least once to satisfy curiosity. Leave the rest of the coat alone.
Use an ear rinse and a cotton pad to clean waxy build up out of outer ear. Stay out of the inner ear canal. Never stick a cotton swab in there. Wait till the wax flows to the outer ear area.
If they are due for worming, do it at the same time as the bath so it is easy to remember. You can order intestinal dewormer online cheaply. Additional worming should be done at 3, 4, 5, 6 months -- then at the start of every season (every three months).
You will need to ask your vet to prescribe Heart worming meds which can be started at any point past 8 weeks of age and are administered monthly. If your prescribed heartwormer is broad spectrum, skip the other worming as it will be included.
Check your flea and tick prevention schedule during bath time to see if that is needed too. If you get behind on flea treatments, be extra vigilant in the summer months. California summers seem to rain fleas and there are ticks when you hike. Fleas not only make you and the dog miserable as they heap up in the summer, an ingested flea (from trying to bite it) turns into a tapeworms and the end results are gruesome.